Options:
- Plastic Only - You can buy just the loc-line assembly including the 1/2" male connector, 90 degree elbow, and 14 flexible segments and thread it into your own bulkhead. (shown on the left of the picture)
- Weldless Kit - with all piece shown to the right. After drilling a 7/8" hole in the top sidewall of your metal mashtun, use the SS washer on the inside and silicone flat gasket on the outside just behind the Camlock Type A Fitting. Of course this only works if you're subscribed to the use of Cam Locks for your disconnect system.(shown in the middle of the picture)
- Kit for Thick Cooler Lids - This kit deletes the lockline elbow so that the straight connector is inline with the tube. It comes with a metal washer, silicone gasket and 1/2" NPT coupling. Drill a 13/16" or 7/8" hole in the underside of the lid and a 1-1/8" hole in the topside of the lid for the coupling to fit into. You can then put either a hose barb or camlock type F into the top of the coupling (not include, buy elsewhere on this site). This kit will work with lids that are up up to about 1.5" thick, e.g. 10 gallon round Igloo. It will also work with Rubbermaid/Gott cooler lids, but you can acheive a lower profile with the regular weldless kit if you make the hole at a location where the top and bottom plastic gets close together. This kit is shown on the far right of the picture.
|
SPECs from the manufacturer: Material: Acetal Copolymer Compatibility:Yes: Acetone, Alcohol, Ethyl, Greases, Oils, Commercial Dish Detergents, Gasoline, Lacquer Solvents, Sodium HydroxideNo: Acids, Ammonium Hydroxide, Bases Strong, Hypochlorite Ion Solutions, Sodium Hypochlorite Melting Point: 329° F Maximum Operating Temperature: 170° F (Repeated exposure over this temperature will cause fatigue) |
|
"Acetal Copolymer" appears to be the generic name for Delrin. More about Delrin on Dupont's site here. |
|
More about food contact from a distributor:
Q: Is Loc-Line safe for food contact? A: The material used to manufacture Loc-Line is an acetal copolymer. This material, in accordance to the rules 21 CFR 177.2470, meets the requirements of this regulation for aqueous food contact. Not applicable for fatty foods and alcohol. All colorants are used at the recommended let-down ratio and meet 21 CFR 178-3297 for food contact.
|
Comments
Thanks
Bill, I understand the confusion. There's a huge group of people out there with the impression that sparging requires some kind of shower head or spinning spray mechanism because the term "rinsing" probably paints that picture. A proper fly sparge requires a foundation of about 1-2" of water on top of the grain bed. Once that is there, it doesn't matter how you deliver new water to that mass other than two requirements: Don't slam the grain with a high pressure stream and the new water should integrate with the current layer. The mash tube is bent/manipulated such that the exit is turned sideways as shown in the pic, just below the water line. In effect, it is barely sitting on top of the grain but also covered by the foundation water. It's angled so that the incoming water creates a gentle swirling of the foundation water. The whole point of this device is to be able to set the height over a large range of grainbeds and is an alternative for those folks who simply lay their ouput hose on top of the grain (which doesn't really stay put anyway).
I promise you, there's no need for showering the grain.
Yes, it's one of the options in the drop down.
Just a spare.
A hose sitting on the grain bed tends to drop lower and lower as the time goes on. The liquid flowing out of it creates a current that removes some of the grain and the hose drops, over and over and eventually it's buried 3" below the grain. The mashtube is rigid enough to stay at the level you set it to.
RSS feed for comments to this post