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Model: SScompDiptube - $21 +
This series of diptubes is based on 1/2" or 5/8" OD thickwalled 304 Stainless Steel tubing bent with a mandrel bender and comes with a stainless compression fitting with 1/2" Male OD threads. The height of these assemblies is approximately 3.5" from fitting center to bottom of the diptube which is just about right for converted kegs. The depth can be trimmed with a hacksaw or copper tubing cutter if necessary. Keep in mind these are really designed for converted kegs. A better AND cheaper alternative for a flat bottom pot would be weldless bulkhead option 3.
 Includes:
- Stainless Compression Fitting with 1/2" NPT male threads on one end and 1/2" or 5/8" OD (select between these tube sizes below) tube compression on the other. (as shown in the pic to the right)
- Stainless mandrel bent tubing (length varies with options below) (as shown in the pic to the right)
- Nylon/Delrin compression sleeve /ferrule for hand-tightenable sealing around the tube.
Options:
- Select between 1/2" OD and 5/8" OD tubing. Obviously the 5/8" OD will flow a little better and it's recommended if you're using all 1/2" ID hoses or if you're pumping out of the vessel.
- Welded Version (see below) - uses a tube approximately 7.5" long horizontally. We recently started making these long enough to reach the center of a keg even if the coupling is welded to the exterior of the keg, flush with the inside. If your coupling is midpoint welded or mostly inside the keg, the diptube will extend past the center of the dish unless you shorten it. This was the best way to accomodate all possible install varieties without having to swap out parts.
- Weldless Version (see below) - uses a shortened tube due to the added depth of a typical weldless bulkhead. Hey, if you have a fresh keg and you're looking to install a diptube like this, please consider the diptube with integrated compression fitting.
DOES NOT INCLUDE the coupling or weldless bulkheads shown in the pictures above.
You can find couplings here and the weldless bulkhead here.
Note that going forward we will be using Nylon compression rings between the compreesion nut and tubing. You may receive a stock unit that still has silicone orings until all the stock turns over. In any case, either method is completely viable for this purpose.
Need a spare or replacement nylon compression ferrule?
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Comments
Wasn't it assembled when you received it? Starting with a bare tube, it's compression nut, two orings, then the fitting. Screw the compression nut on hand tight and the tubing should be generally pretty snug. You'd be able to pull the tube out if you pulled hard enough, but it's liquid tight at that point.
You can flip the tube in the compression fitting to pick up off center. The other option is to just use a simple, and cheap, elbow off the bulkhead if you want to pick up really high up on the dish.
As Jeff mentions above, will this dip tube go right to the center of a sanke keg? As in, is the horizontal length enough to get to the hole in the center of a false bottom?
What distance do you recommend between the bottom of the dip tube and the bottom of the kettle to don't restrict the flow neither leave behind too much wort?
The 1/2" spud requires a 1" hole so that would either be a 3/4" NPT conduit punch or a 1" radio punch.
The back of the spud doesn't have threads so it is not very well suited for a dip tube. A raw 5/8" diptube will slip fit pretty close to the ID of a 1/2" NPT nipple and you can solder it. That way you can slip the diptube in through the spud from the outside and thread the nipple into the spud. My recommendation? Get the weldless bulkhead with integrated diptube. Easy peazy.
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