This kit will turn a keg into either a boil kettle or hot liquor tank if you plan to weld your accessories in.
K-WELD-3 - Three port weld on kit gets you a way to drain the vessel, measure the temperature, and view the exact amount of liquid volume currently in the tank.
Includes a 2pc ball valve
(upgradable to 3pc as an accessory), 5/8" diptube assembly with weld in full coupling, T325 dial thermometer with weld in half coupling, SL sight glass kit with weld in 1/4" half coupling.
- Note, this kit does NOT include a hose barb or camlock type F as shown in the pictures. Please select a hose connection fitting from the accessory list on the right.
Converting old scrapped Sanke half barrel (15.5 gallon or 50 litre) kegs to brew vessels is very popular in the homebrewing community so we've put together packages of accessories that are most commonly used to reduce how many different items you have to add to the shopping cart. Keep in mind that there are about 100 different ways you might accessorize your project and we've only captured a few popular ones here. All of these parts are available ala carte elsewhere on this site.
Note, for the purposes of these kits, we do not differentiate between a boil kettle and HLT because we like building them with the same parts anyway.
Weld the 1/2" NPT Half coupling in nice and low, parallel to the floor.
Weld the 1/2" NPT half coupling in where you want the thermometer to install. PLACEMENT!!! Please consider the fact that you may want to brew a smaller 5 gallon batch even though kegs are capable of 12 gallon batches. Do not install your thermometer higher than the 5 gallon level.
Weld in the 1/4" NPT half coupling nice and low on the keg wall, as parallel to the floor as you can get it.
With some teflon tape on the sight glass elbow fitting, thread it into the half coupling until snug and upright. Make the tube straight up and down (plumb) and mark a spot to drill the
1/4" hole at the very top of the vessel for the eyebolt. Leave one nut
on the eyebolt threads, slip the loop over the top of the sightglass
tubing, insert the eyebolt threads into your 1/4" hole, and thread the
second nut onto the threads from the interior of the vessel. The
distance the tubing is held from the vessel can be adjusted before
tightening everything up. On a straight pot, be sure to locate the hole
as high as you can without the interior nut interfering with an inset
style lid. On a keg, you can locate the hole at about the middle of the
top skirt avoiding the rolled edge at the very top.
Tip: Take the
time to make sure the tube is straight. I know you're anxious to get
the job done but if you eyeball it badly, you'll regret it every time
you brew and see a crooked tube.
CALIBRATION INSTRUCTIONS for all kit types:
1. Level the
vessel, apply a vertical piece of masking tape to the side of the tube,
and add a carefully measure gallon of water at a time noting each gallon
on the tape. Empty the vessel and remove the sight glass. Cut the
number strip into individual numbers, remove the rigid paper off the
number, apply at the correct level on the tube. Remove the clear top
masking leaving ONLY the black vinyl number behind. (It's probably
better to view the video to get this). If you are adventurous, you can
apply the decals directly to the sight glass while calibrating the
level, but we find it's much easier to get a clean straight application
with the tube laying down horizontally.
2. If you make a mistake
applying the vinyl numbers, you should be able to scrape them off with
your fingernail without damaging the tubing. However, do NOT use any
solvents or adhesive removers except for rubbing alcohol on a paper
towel and some elbow grease. Unfortunately if this happens, you'll have
to buy another strip of numbers.
LENGTH TRIMMING INSTRUCTIONS for all kit types:
after initial installation you find the tubing is sticking up past the
top of the vessel, you may want to trim it flush to make it look better
and avoid snagging.
1. Mark the cut line with a sharpie marker or
piece of tape. WARNING, if you are using tape to mark the cut line, be
sure to note which edge represents the cut line or you may cut the
tubing short by whatever the thickness of the tape is.
the kit from the vessel, laying the tubing down on a piece of cloth to
avoid scratching, and cut the tubing with a hack saw or other
fine-toothed trim saw. You can also use a tubing cutter designed for
copper pipe to make a score cut around the tubing and then snapping it.
In either case, you can clean up the cut edge with a piece of sandpaper
wrapped around a block of wood.