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Keg to Kettle Conversion Kit - 2 Port Weldless Drain, and Large Sightglass/Thermometer
Keg to Kettle Conversion Kit - 2 Port Weldless Drain, and Large Sightglass/Thermometer


 
Our Price: $100.00

Quantity in Stock:797


Product Code: K-WL-2L


The following items are included with this product:



Sightglass Decals:


Qty:  
Description
 
This kit will turn a keg into either a boil kettle or hot liquor tank if you do not have the ability to weld your accessories in. Since the sightglass and thermometer is combined into one unit, you only need to drill two holes.

K-WL-2L - Two port kit gets you a way to drain the vessel, measure the temperature, and view the exact amount of liquid volume currently in the tank. Includes a 2pc ball valve (upgradable to 3pc as an accessory), 5/8" diptube assembly with integrated weldless bulkhead, Larger LTSK sight glass kit with 3" dial thermometer.

  • Note, this kit does NOT include a hose barb or camlock type F as shown in the pictures. Please select a hose connection fitting from the accessory list on the right.

Converting old scrapped Sanke half barrel (15.5 gallon or 50 litre) kegs to brew vessels is very popular in the homebrewing community so we've put together packages of accessories that are most commonly used to reduce how many different items you have to add to the shopping cart. Keep in mind that there are about 100 different ways you might accessorize your project and we've only captured a few popular ones here. All of these parts are available ala carte elsewhere on this site.

Note, for the purposes of these kits, we do not differentiate between a boil kettle and HLT because we like building them with the same parts anyway.

Install Requirements:

Bulkhead/Drain:
  • Drill a clean 13/16" (ideal) or 7/8" (a little loose but OK) diameter hole in your keg taking care to avoid any wall contours that may prevent the silicone gasket from sitting flat on the inside wall of the vessel. Remove the thin locknut and SS washer from the assembly insert through the hole from the inside (the gasket goes inside). Then slide the metal washer on and thread the locknut on until snug. Do not overtigten. During leak testing, if you get a few drops of liquid, snug the locknut another 1/8th turn and check again.
  • The last step is wrapping the end of the threads with some teflon tape and then a ball valve of your choice. Note: the ball valve will NOT make contact with the exterior locknut in this design. The seal and locknut assembly is completely separate from the ball valve attachment. You will see a section of threads between the nut and ball valve and this is normal.
  • The dip tube height may need to be trimmed in some cases. In a hot liquor tank, you want the opening of the tube to sit about 1/8" off the bottom. In a boil kettle, you can rotate the diptube so that the opening is about 3/4" off the bottom offset from center to leave some trub in the center dish. To leave even more behind, reverse the diptube so the short end is in the compression fitting. This is shown in the secondary image on this page.


Sightglass Instructions:

1. LOCATE the preferred center point for the sight glass bulkhead hole. First, make sure the interior stainless steel washer will not rest against the bottom curvature of the keg. The whole assembly needs to be on a flat area of the side wall.

2. Drill a clean 13/16" (better) or 7/8" diameter hole in the sidewall of your metal vessel, preferably with a step or “uni” bit. Tip: Start any hole with a small 1/8" pilot hole as most larger bits are not great at getting the initial hole through the metal. Deburr any sharp edges from the hole by either running the step bit from the inside or by using a metal file or sand paper. Be extremely careful working on the drilled hole until the sharp edges are smoothed out.

3.Unscrew the threaded bushing from the tee fitting and remove the silicone gasket.

4.Leave the metal washer(s) on the bushing and insert it through the hole in the vessel from the inside.

5.Push the red silicone washer over the threads on the outside of the vessel all the way tight to the sidewall. (most people ignore this and complain about leaks. We assume that if you're already reading this, you'll probably get it right so thanks for that. Again, the gasket goes on the OUTSIDE of the pot.

6.Hold the tee fitting in front of the threads and turn the bushing from the inside to thread it in. The silicone washer should crush slightly between the fitting and the vessel wall but do NOT over tighten. It is better to undertighten and adjust a bit tighter later if it leaks. Note that the silicone gasket should be the only thing between the fitting and the outside wall of your vessel. You should NOT use teflon tape or any other type of thread sealant on the threads of the weldless bushing. The seal is made with the gasket.

7. Apply teflon tape to the threads attached to the sightglass tube and then thread it into the top of the tee. You will find that upon rotation, the sight tube with wobble away and towards the keg wall. You must stop when the tube is vertical and snug enough to be leak free.

8. Make the tube straight up and down (plumb) and mark a spot to drill the 1/4" hole at the very top of the vessel for the eyebolt. Leave one nut on the eyebolt threads, slip the loop over the top of the sightgass tubing, insert the eyebolt threads into your 1/4" hole, and thread the second nut onto the threads from the interior of the vessel. The distance the tubing is held from the vessel can be adjusted before tightening everything up. On a straight pot, be sure to locate the hole as high as you can without the interior nut interfearing with an inset style lid. On a keg, you can locate the hole at about the middle of the top skirt avoiding the rolled edge at the very top.

Tip: Take the time to make sure the tube is straight. I know you're anxious to get the job done but if you eyeball it badly, you'll regret it every time you brew and see a crooked tube.

9. Wrap some teflon tape around the threads of the dial thermometer and thread it into the open end of the tee until upright and snug.



CALIBRATION INSTRUCTIONS for all kit types:


1. Level the vessel, apply a vertical piece of masking tape to the side of the tube, and add a carefully measure gallon of water at a time noting each gallon on the tape. Empty the vessel and remove the sight glass. Cut the number strip into individual numbers, remove the rigid paper off the number, apply at the correct level on the tube. Remove the clear top masking leaving ONLY the black vinyl number behind. (It's probably better to view the video to get this). If you are adventurous, you can apply the decals directly to the sight glass while calibrating the level, but we find it's much easier to get a clean straight application with the tube laying down horizontally.

2. If you make a mistake applying the vinyl numbers, you should be able to scrape them off with your fingernail without damaging the tubing. However, do NOT use any solvents or adhesive removers except for rubbing alcohol on a paper towel and some elbow grease. Unfortunately if this happens, you'll have to buy another strip of numbers.


LENGTH TRIMMING INSTRUCTIONS for all kit types:

If after initial installation you find the tubing is sticking up past the top of the vessel, you may want to trim it flush to make it look better and avoid snagging.

1. Mark the cut line with a sharpie marker or piece of tape. WARNING, if you are using tape to mark the cut line, be sure to note which edge represents the cut line or you may cut the tubing short by whatever the thickness of the tape is.

2. Remove the kit from the vessel, laying the tubing down on a piece of cloth to avoid scratching, and cut the tubing with a hack saw or other fine-toothed trim saw. You can also use a tubing cutter designed for copper pipe to make a score cut around the tubing and then snapping it. In either case, you can clean up the cut edge with a piece of sandpaper wrapped around a block of wood.



Average Rating: Average Rating: 4.5 of 5 4.5 of 5 Total Reviews: 3 Click Here to Write a Review »

Accessories
Heat Shield Large for LTS style sight glasses. Bent to avoid 3" dial thermometer face.
Our Price: $10.00

Add
Heat Shield Large for LTS style sight glasses. Bent to avoid 3" dial thermometer face.
Camlock Quick Disconnects - Cam F
Our Price: $4.50

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Camlock Quick Disconnects  - Cam F
Heat Shield Large sideways clip for Ball Valves
Our Price: $10.00

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Heat Shield Large sideways clip for Ball Valves
Kit Ball Valve Upgrade - 2pc to 3pc (use only if ordering kit with 2pc Valve as standard)
Our Price: $5.00

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Kit Ball Valve Upgrade - 2pc to 3pc (use only if ordering kit with 2pc Valve as standard)
Hose Barb, 1/2" Male NPT x 5/8" Hose ID
Our Price: $4.00

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Hose Barb, 1/2" Male NPT x 5/8" Hose ID
Hose Barb, 1/2" Male NPT x 1/2" Hose ID
Our Price: $3.75

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Hose Barb, 1/2" Male NPT x 1/2" Hose ID


  0 of 0 people found the following review helpful:
 
5 of 5 Just what I needed February 11, 2018
Reviewer: Julius G. from LONG BEACH, CA United States  
I’m very happy with this purchase. Quality product with easy to follow installation instructions.

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  1 of 1 people found the following review helpful:
 
5 of 5 High quality - Great Design February 15, 2015
Reviewer: Steve Dunn from Salt Lake City, UT United States  
I learned to be an extract brewer from books and friends.

I learned to be an all grain brewer from Bobby's YouTube vidios.  That's why I bought a keg conversion kit from him.  The quality of the kit is why I'll buy from him again and again.

Its high quality, designed by a brewer for brewers to solve a problem - not just to move stock.

Thanks Bobby.

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  0 of 0 people found the following review helpful:
 
4 of 5 excellent January 5, 2015
Reviewer: Timothy Weiss from FPO AE, NY United States  
Love the site and videos.This weekend I'll install.

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