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This combo tool creates a flared opening in kettle walls, bottoms, lids, etc for install of both 1/2" npt based pull through bulkheads as well as 1.5" TC weld ferrules. Once the fitting are installed, they are well prepped to receive a bead of silver solder for strong permanent (or not) install.
We can offer this combo tool at a discounted price because it leverages the same bolt, nut, and washer hardware.
For 1/2" Pull Through Bulkheads:
NOTE: This tool does NOT pull a flared hole in your pot by itself. You MUST use it in conjunction with one of the tapered pull through bulkheads we offer. Even if you want to pull in a coupling, you will need one PTbulkhead to use its taper.
Here's how it gets installed (assuming male threads outward) (NOTE that we send written instructions with the fittings and they may supercede these):
- Drill a 13/16" or 7/8" hole in your pot (7/8" works better for walls thicker than 1mm such as kegs)
- Deburr the hole (file or sand the sharp edges),
- Degrease the fitting and pot wall with paint thinner, acetone, etc.
- Push the fitting into the hole in your pot from the inside until it stops.
- Remove the nut and washer from the install tool and then insert the bolt of the install tool into the PTbulkhead fitting until the large diameter die contacts the pot wall.
- On the inside of the pot, install the washer and thread on the nut until hand snug.
- Apply liquid flux to the fitting on the inside of the pot. This will ensure flux coverage when the fitting is pulled into place, but also acts as a lubricant.
- With a pair of wrenches of some sort, tighten the bolt/nut to pull the fitting through the hole until the large ring at the female end of the fitting makes contact with the inside of the pot wall.
- Be sure not to over pull the fitting because it is possible to open the hole up too much such that the fitting is not longer a tight fit!
- Apply a little more flux, heat with a propane torch and apply Stay Brite silver solder to the joint on the inside of the pot.
- After cooling, clean up the area and polish the heat affected areas with bar keeper's friend or a felt wheel with polishing compound to return the area to the original luster.
Other details:
If you would rather pull in a 1/2" NPT full coupling so you can have female threads inside and outside of the pot, you can use the pull tool and PTbulkhead fitting together to create a dimple large enough for the coupling. You will proceed as above to pull the male/female fitting into the hole but tighten it just enough so the larger diameter stop start opening up the flare. Remove the tool and the M/F fitting. You will then reload the tool with the full coupling in place instead of the PTbulkhead and pull that through to whatever position you wish. For this usage, creating an initial hole at 7/8" diameter will make things easier, especially in thicker walled pots.
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For the 1.5" TC
This tool creates a flared opening in kettle walls, bottoms, lids, etc for install of 1.5" TC weld ferrules. Once the ferrule is installed, it is well prepped to receive a bead of silver solder for strong permanent (or not) install.
The best ferrule length to use for this process is the 1.5" Long Weld Ferrule as show in the accessory list on the right. It leaves enough clearance for the TC wingnut. Note: the tolerance between the tool and ferrule is very tight and in some cases, they need to be tapped together with a mallet. After pulling into place, the bullet may need to be knocked out with a block of wood and a hammer.
Here's how it gets installed using the one step pull-in method:
- Drill a 1-1/4" hole in your pot using a tungsten carbide hole saw or step bit. WAIT.. Don't do that yet. It's very important that you avoid putting this hole too close to any of the weld lines on the pot. Most pots are made by rolling the walls and doing a vertical seam weld and then the bottom is fully welded on around the circumference. The worst place to locate the TC port is at the junction between the vertical and horizontal weld seams. You will likely tear the pot apart. Also try to stay about at least a 1/2" above the bottom weld. We are asking a lot of these pots when you consider the stress of flaring. It is possible to tear your pot open to the point where solder is not going to repair it. We do not replace pots so do this DIY at your own risk.
- Deburr the hole (file or sand the sharp edges).
- Degrease the pot wall, TC ferrule, and tapered bullet mandrel with acetone, etc.
- The bolt of the install tool remains installed through the large cup die and that assembly goes inside the pot with the threaded side of the bolt sticking out through the hole.
- On the outside of the pot, the narrow end of the bullet mandrel is slid onto the bolt, followed by the TC ferrule, the large fender washer, a smaller flat washer and finally the nut.
- Hand snug the nut until everything is firmly in place. Wiggle the bolt in a few directions to be sure everything is centered.
- Apply liquid flux to the fitting on the inside of the pot. This will ensure flux coverage when the fitting is pulled into place, but also acts as a lubricant.
- With a pair of wrenches of some sort, tighten the bolt/nut to pull the fitting through the hole. While the mandrel is creating the flared opening, it will be difficult to tighten the nut. Continue to tighten as smoothly as you can. Once the full diameter is reached, it will be easier to tighten. When the bullet mandrel clears the pot wall, you will hear a popping sound. You will want to continue tightening another 1.5 turns.
- Loosen the nut and take the tool out of place. You want the inside edge of the ferrule to stick into the flared opening by at least 1/16".
- Prop the pot on its back so that the TC flange is perfectly level in all directions facing up towards the ceiling.
- Wrap a length of solder around the ferrule and let it settle into the valley.
- Apply a little more flux into the valley created by the flare, heat with a propane torch indirectly in circles around the ferrule, then on the inside of the ferrule moving continuously until the solder melts. You may wish to add a little more solder as the pool is still molten for a smoother finish but it's probably not necessary.
- After cooling, clean up the area and polish the heat affected areas with bar keeper's friend or a felt wheel with polishing compound to return the area to the original luster.
Other details:
The picture shows the tool with a TC ferrule loaded in the correct location for install but does NOT include one.
It comes with a grade 5 bolt and nut, two flat washers, one thick fender washer, a flaring bullet mandrel and a cup die.
Optional install method for 9th level hardware nerds (there is a relatively high failure rate for this method so use at your own risk):
The standard install method outlined above is awesomely easy with the only downside being that the solder joint is done on the outside. For a slightly better outside appearance, you can flare the hole outward and then pull the TC ferrule in from the outside. We call this the FOPI method (Flare Out, Pull In).
- Drill a 1-1/4" hole in your pot
- Deburr the hole (file or sand the sharp edges). If you used a step bit, you can use it to deburr the hole by running it on the other side of the hole.
- Degrease the pot wall, TC ferrule, and tapered bullet mandrel with acetone, etc.
- The bolt of the install tool remains installed through the large cup die and that assembly goes outside the pot with the threaded side of the bolt sticking in through the hole.
- On the inside of the pot, the narrow end of the bullet mandrel is slid onto the bolt, followed by the TC ferrule, large fender washer, a smaller flat washer and finally the nut.
- Tighten the nut/bolt until the bullet mandrel pops all the way through the hole.
- IMPORTANT: Make sure the opening of the hole is smooth with no burrs. Any burrs will prevent the ferrule from popping back in.
- Wipe a light coating of Harris Stay Clean liquid flux on the interior of the flared opening.
- Load the tool with the TC ferrule in place this time exactly in reverse. The cup die goes inside the pot this time. The bullet mandrel will slightly stretch the flare open again (in the opposite direction) just enough to let the edge of the TC tubing to slip in.
- Slowly tighten the nut/bolt. If all goes well, the TC ferrule will slide into the opening of the flare. If it starts getting hard to turn, the leading edge of the ferrule may have gotten hung up on the edge of the flare.
- The final step is to solder on the inside of the pot.
What's that about failure rate? Yeah, it's an adventure for sure. If the ferrule gets hung up, it starts to deform the flare inward and it's enough to drive you to drink. In every test case that failed, we were able to tap out the deformity and go again. Is it for you? Probably not. Don't do it.
Do you care about Economics?
| Process | Tool/Labor Cost | TC port | Total for 1 | Total for 4 ports | | Weld In Ferrule DIY | $1500 welder | $4.50 | $1504.50 | $1518 | | Weld In Ferrule HIRE OUT | $50 per port | $4.50 | $54.50 | $218 | | Pull Through Weld Ferrule (soldered) | $30 pull tool
$30 torch/gas | $4.50 | $64.50 | $78 | | Radius Faced Flange (soldered) | $30 torch/gas | $20 | $50 | $110 | | Weldless TC | $13 Socket | $26 | $39 | $117 |
Of course there are a lot of other factors to consider other than cost. The most skilled TIG welding professional possible will do a great job but only a lucky few homebrewers will have access. This pull through TC with soldering process is about as good as it gets for a DIY.
Optional Buy-Back Offer:
Consider the purchase price for this tool a deposit. If you should choose to return the tool after using it for a few installs, we will refund 2/3rds. With that spirit in mind, the tool you receive may not be pristine in appearance but will work as intended.
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Perfect 
