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BrewHardware.com heating elements are 100% stainless steel from the the tubular sheath down to the hex and threaded bushing part. They do not have the same problems with the screw in base rusting such as the elements found on Amazon and in the home improvement stores. Understand that all stainless elements cost more but you will fully appreciate the longevity of stainless steel. Don't buy elements twice. Get these the first time.

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Prewiring 1500w, 120v All Stainless Heating Element 1500w, 120v All Stainless Heating Element
2000 watt, 120 volt All Stainless Heating Element 5500 watt, 240 volt All Stainless Heating Element 5500 watt, 240 volt, RIPPLE shape All Stainless Heating Element
TC integrated Element TC integrated Element TC integrated Element
TC integrated Element TC integrated Element TC integrated Element
Blichmann   BoilCoil 7.5 gallon 120V Blichmann   BoilCoil 10 gallon 120V Blichmann   BoilCoil 10 gallon 240V
Blichmann   BoilCoil 15 gallon 240V Blichmann   BoilCoil 20 gallon 240V Blichmann   BoilCoil 30 gallon 240V
Blichmann   BoilCoil 55 gallon 240V
   
 
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Due to customer inquiry and popular request, we have been expanding our selection of element configurations.

The specs you need to be aware of are the supply voltage, effective wattage, element length, and resulting watt density. The element length is important for direct installs into the side wall of your kettles and for use with our Hot Rod heat stick. Measure your pot diameter and make sure the element will physically fit (the Hot Rod adds 2.5" of depth).

The required wattage for brewing operations will vary with batch size and while we can make recommendations, it's impossible to anticipate all variables. When heating water only, the wattage will only affect how long it takes to reach your target temperature. In that case, more wattage is always better as it cuts brew day time. Boiling wort will require approximately 3000 watts for 5-7 gallons, then about 1000 more watts per additional 5 gallons. These wattage requirements can be reduced a bit if you insulate the kettle. Users have reported mixed results with 2000 watts being enough for a boil as everyone's impression of "boiling" is a little different.

Watt Density is most important when the element is in direct contact with wort, whether in the mashing process or in the boil. Watt density is expresses as generated watts per square inch of element surface area. It effectively dictates how hot the surface of the element can get. The lower the watt density, the less likely it will scorch the sugar (or protein) in the wort. For a given wattage, watt density is reduced by adding length. To further lengthen while keep overall element length reasonable, the tubing will be folded back onto itself. These are known as foldback elements and typically fall into Low Watt Density or Ultra Low Watt Density designations. On higher watt elements such as 4500 and 5500 watt, density is further reduced by making a set of serpentine bends as seen in the picture below. These are often called "ripple" elements and despite the high wattage, it is the lowest watt density you can use in your boil kettle short of installing multiple lower watt elements in series. One other trick to reducing density is using a 240 volt rated element and powering it with only 120 volts. The effective wattage, and watt density, is reduced to 25% of the rated 240 wattage. For example, our straight 5500 watt foldback element is approximately 120 watts per square inch. Running it on 120 volts gives you 1375 watts total at only 30 watts per square inch for ILWD (Insanely Low Watt Density).





Element Type Density at Voltage Used
240 120v
1500w Short X 70 WPI
1500w Long X 52 WPI
2000w Foldback X 60 WPI
5500w Foldback 120 WPI 30 WPI (only 1375 total watts)
5500w Ripple 60 WPI 15 WPI (only 1375 total watts)