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Keg to Mash Tun Conversion Kit - 1 port WELDLESS with false bottom
Keg to Mash Tun Conversion Kit - 1 port WELDLESS with false bottom


 
Our Price: $135.00

Quantity in Stock:416

Product Code: K-WL-MASH
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The following items are included with this product:

Description
 
This kit will turn a keg into mash tun if you do NOT plan to weld your accessories in.

K-WL-Mash - One port weld on kit gets you a way to drain the vessel only. Includes a 2pc ball valve (upgradable to 3pc as an accessory), 5/8" diptube assembly with integrated weldless bulkhead, false bottom, false bottom stand.
  • Note, this kit does NOT include a hose barb or camlock type F as shown in the pictures. Please select a hose connection fitting from the accessory list on the right.

Converting old scrapped Sanke half barrel (15.5 gallon or 50 litre) kegs to brew vessels is very popular in the homebrewing community so we've put together packages of accessories that are most commonly used to reduce how many different items you have to add to the shopping cart. Keep in mind that there are about 100 different ways you might accessorize your project and we've only captured a few popular ones here. All of these parts are available ala carte elsewhere on this site.

Note: The primary application is for 15.5 gallon, American Sanke-style Kegs, that measure approximately 15.75" diameter just above the area that transitions to the dished bottom. This false bottom will self-center at the area where it begins to curve into the dish. While it may fit into other keg styles such as the European 50L, Coors, or Hoff Stevens, we have not had the chance to test this.


Install Requirements:

Bulkhead/Drain:

Drill a clean 13/16" (ideal) or 7/8" (a little loose but OK) diameter hole in your keg or pot taking care to avoid any wall contours that may prevent the silicone gasket from sitting flat on the inside wall of the vessel. Remove the thin locknut and SS washer from the assembly insert through the hole from the inside. Then slide the metal washer on and thread the locknut on until snug. Do not overtigten. During leak testing, if you get a few drops of liquid, snug the locknut another 1/8th turn and check again.

The last step is wrapping the end of the threads with some teflon tape and then a ball valve of your choice. Of course, you can thread on any kind of fitting with 1/2" female threads as an alternative. Note: the ball valve will NOT make contact with the exterior locknut in this design. The seal and locknut assembly is completely separate from the ball valve attachement. You will see a section of threads between the nut and ball valve and this is normal.


Diptube and False Bottom:

The details below will suggest the need to trim the diptube in most cases. The two easiest ways to cut stainless tubing is a tubing cutter (Lowes/Home Depot) meant to cut copper tubing, etc or a hack saw with a fine tooth metal cutting blade. In the case of the hack saw, you'll want to clean up the sharp cut edges with a file or sanding block. Please be careful. The cut edge is really sharp.

Dip Tube Length Requirements:

If you're just buying the false bottom by itself without the dip tube, we assume you already have a diptube installed or plan to make one yourself. No problem, maybe. You'll need to make sure they will mate up. The centerpoint of the center hole will be between 7.44" and 7.81" from the sidewall of the keg where you'd install the bulkhead (depending on how you rotate the false bottom). It should be obvious that a diptube that is a little too long can be trimmed, but there is nothing you can do if it is too short. If you've purchased a thread-in style diptube from us in the past, check the measurement because the lengths were never as precise as required here.
Bulkhead Type Considerations:

If you already have your coupling welded in and select that style of thread-in diptube, we now base the dip tube length on the assumption that your coupling has been installed flush with the inside of the keg. If your coupling is welded half way into the keg or even flush with the outside, you will likely need to trim the length as discussed above.

Dip Tube Height Requirements

The height of the dip tube is less critical than the length, but there are some things to consider. First, if the drop is too long given your bulkhead install location, the horizontal tube is not going to seat into the compression fitting straight. In extreme cases, the compression nut won't even be able to thread on to the fitting. The easiest way to test fit is to install the diptube without the false bottom in your way. You can fix a long tube by trimming a little off the bottom opening. We recommend taking off small slivers at a time (no more than a 1/4" at a time). Keep test fitting it until the horizontal tube is sticking relatively straight out of the compression fitting while the bottom is just touching the bottom dish of the keg.

Many people will like to cut it even shorter to keep the opening from bottoming out on the keg and stopping the flow. However, our recommended solution to preventing bottom-out is to cut the bottom of the tube at an angle. AFTER you have the height trimmed so that it nearly hits the bottom, remove it and cut a triangular piece off the end. Then turn the blade to the end and remove the 3/4 piece. Now you have a point on the tube that will touch the bottom of the keg, but a wide open area to flow the wort out.

Now it's time to test fit the false bottom. Fold at the hinge to get the false bottom into the top of your keg, then open it up with the hinged DOWN. Drop the diptube (with compression nut and nylon ferrule in place) into the hole and try to get the horizontal tube into the compression fitting. You can slide the false bottom back away from the bulkhead to clear the compression fitting. Rotate the false bottom and notice how the diptube will get closer and further away from the bulkhead fitting. Ideally, you want the diptube fully seated into the compression fitting while the false bottom is well centered in the keg and sitting nice and level. If the false bottom is being held too far away from the bulkhead to sit flat, even when the center hole is rotated furthest away, you will need to trim the horizontal side of the diptube. Again, trim VERY little off at a time. Try 1/8" sliver off the end and retry the fit. This may be a hassle, but once you get the diptube trimmed perfectly, your subsequent disassembly for cleaning will be painless.
Average Rating: 5 of 5 Total Reviews: 7 Click Here to Write a Review »

Accessories
Camlock Quick Disconnects - Cam F
Our Price: $4.00

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Camlock Quick Disconnects  - Cam F
Heat Shield Large sideways clip for Ball Valves
Our Price: $10.00

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Heat Shield Large sideways clip for Ball Valves
Hose Barb, 1/2" Male NPT x 5/8" Hose ID
Our Price: $4.00

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Hose Barb, 1/2" Male NPT x 5/8" Hose ID
Kit Ball Valve Upgrade - 2pc to 3pc (use only if ordering kit with 2pc Valve as standard)
Our Price: $5.00

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Kit Ball Valve Upgrade - 2pc to 3pc (use only if ordering kit with 2pc Valve as standard)
Poly Edging By the Foot
Our Price: $0.60

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Poly Edging By the Foot


  0 of 0 people found the following review helpful:
 
Quality hardware... May 12, 2019
Reviewer: Colin McDonald from Pittsburgh, PA United States  
Upgrading my herms and this made a solid jump into better equipment.  I chose it because I wanted the higher volume dip tube and it works wonders to move the wort into the boil kettle.

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  0 of 0 people found the following review helpful:
 
sturdy false bottom April 24, 2017
Reviewer: chris perry from Salem, OR United States  
Although I haven't brewed with this yet, the installation was a snap, and was a good fit covering the entire bottom of the keg and there will be about a gallon of wort below the false bottom.   My previous bottom was only 10" and only had a pint below it. needless to say, the scorch worries are behind me. Great product!

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  0 of 0 people found the following review helpful:
 
Heavy Duty April 21, 2016
Reviewer: Brett Norman from Winchester, CA United States  
This kit is what I needed to do the job right the first time! I used parts from Bobby to make my Keggle and loved the weldless kit so much i didn't even think about doing it any other way. I love how brew hardware.com knows what they are talking about and gives detailed instructions for all the equipment they sell. The false bottom was a perfect fit, was heavy duty and had no sharp edges from machining or oil all over it. It went together fast and is just what I wanted. The only part I didn't order was the weldless kit for the thermometer (the nut and washer with O-ring), I thought it would come with since it was part of the "weldless kit". Great job Bobby!

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  0 of 0 people found the following review helpful:
 
It's a beautiful thing January 21, 2016
Reviewer: Hugh Brown from Oro-Medonte, ON Canada  

It's a beautiful thing. Took me 10 years to finally do it, but finally completed my Sankey keg conversion project with Bobby's - Keg to Mash Tun Conversion Kit - 1 port WELDLESS with false bottom. Took about an hour to drill and install it and the weldless brewing thermometer.

The bulkhead design is the best out there. Now time to start planning for Saturday's brew. Homebrewers' in Canada thank you.

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  0 of 0 people found the following review helpful:
 
Super fast June 12, 2015
Reviewer: Travis Mullen from New Egypt, NJ United States  
Took two days to get my order. Everything is high quality and heavy duty. Would tell anyone to shop here

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