This sight glass is designed for installation in 10 gallon Rubbermaid or Igloo beverage dispensing coolers that are being used as hot liquor tanks. It's also a part of our Cooler HLT conversion kits as well, but if all you want to add is a sight glass, this is the item you want.
- 19" Polycarbonate Tubing rated to 250F.
- Stainless Hardware
- Plastic clamp to secure tube to the top of the cooler.
- High Temp. Silicone Gasket
- Black Vinyl Numbers for calibrating
CALIBRATION INSTRUCTIONS for all kit types:
- Drill a small pilot hole through the side of the cooler all the way into the interior making sure that the hole is at least 1/2" above the curved portion of the inner wall.
- At the pilot hole location, drill ONLY the outside wall to a minimum of 3/4" diameter but up to 1" would be OK also.
- Carefully dig out the insulation foam to the same diameter as the outside hole to reveal the inside wall.
- At the pilot hole location, drill the inside wall to exactly 1/2" diameter.
- Wrap the threaded bushing threads with teflon tape, and put the red gasket in place on the bushing. If your bushing had a stainless steel washer, remove it. The gasket must be directly against the hex on the bushing.
- Insert the threaded bushing into the hole from the inside.
- Insert the sight glass assembly into the hole and thread the bushing in by turning it from inside the cooler.
- Line the tubing up vertically and mark the location of the stabilizing clip on the cooler. The clip will be installed with a pair of included sheet metal screws. It will make its own hole if you apply pressure to the screwdriver or you may also drill a tiny pilot hole. Do not overtigten the screw or the plastic will easily strip.
- We highly recommend that you drill a small (1/8") weep hole in the bottom OUTSIDE shell of the cooler, directly under where any weldless fittings are installed. (After step 3 is a good time). This hole will allow liquid to leak out to indicate an issue with your seals. Without doing this, leaks will go undetected for far too long and potentially foul up the cooler over time. Of course, please be careful not to pierce the inner wall of the cooler when you do this.
1. Level the vessel, apply a vertical piece of masking tape to the side of the tube, and add a carefully measure gallon of water at a time noting each gallon on the tape. Empty the vessel and remove the sight glass. Cut the number strip into individual numbers, remove the rigid paper off the number, apply at the correct level on the tube. Remove the clear top masking leaving ONLY the black vinyl number behind. (It's probably better to view the video to get this). If you are adventurous, you can apply the decals directly to the sight glass while calibrating the level, but we find it's much easier to get a clean straight application with the tube laying down horizontally.
2. If you make a mistake applying the vinyl numbers, you should be able to scrape them off with your fingernail without damaging the tubing. However, do NOT use any solvents or adhesive removers except for rubbing alcohol on a paper towel and some elbow grease. Unfortunately if this happens, you'll have to buy another strip of numbers.
LENGTH TRIMMING INSTRUCTIONS for all kit types:
If after initial installation you find the tubing is sticking up past the top of the vessel, you may want to trim it flush to make it look better and avoid snagging.
1. Mark the cut line with a sharpie marker or piece of tape. WARNING, if you are using tape to mark the cut line, be sure to note which edge represents the cut line or you may cut the tubing short by whatever the thickness of the tape is.
2. Remove the kit from the vessel, laying the tubing down on a piece of cloth to avoid scratching, and cut the tubing with a hack saw or other fine-toothed trim saw. You can also use a tubing cutter designed for copper pipe to make a score cut around the tubing and then snapping it. In either case, you can clean up the cut edge with a piece of sandpaper wrapped around a block of wood.